Antique Iban Textile Pua Belantan

Pua Belantan (Ceremonial Cloth)Culture: Iban, Sarawak, Borneo
Date: Estimated circa 1900
Materials & Technique: Hand-woven cotton; supplementary weft patterning
Dimensions: 200 × 80 cm
Provenance: Collected from the Seratok area, Sarawak; acquired from a private collector active in the early 1970s

This is an early Iban pua belantan, a ceremonial textile traditionally woven as two long, narrow panels and joined along the vertical axis, forming a central seam visible along the length of the cloth. The textile is predominantly undyed natural cotton, framed by finely executed reddish-brown borders and end panels, likely produced using natural dyes.

The decorative program is restrained yet deliberate. At both ends of the textile are dense horizontal bands of geometric motifs, composed of repeating lozenges, interlocking hooks, and triangular serrations. These motifs are arranged with strong symmetry and rhythm, reflecting the disciplined weaving tradition associated with ritual-grade pua belantan. Along the sides run narrow striped borders that frame the otherwise open central field, emphasizing balance and proportion.

The largely undecorated central ground is characteristic of pua belantan, distinguishing it from more densely patterned pua kumbu. This open field enhanced the cloth’s functional and ritual roles, allowing it to serve as a receiving cloth for trophy heads after successful headhunting expeditions, and as a protective wrap for newborn children. In both contexts, the textile functioned as a spiritual shield, mediating between the human and spirit worlds.

Cultural Significance:
Within Iban society, pua belantan are imbued with potent symbolic meaning. The motifs woven at the ends are believed to derive from dream imagery (mimpi) experienced by skilled female weavers, who acted as intermediaries between the living community and the spirit realm. These motifs conveyed protection, fertility, and continuity of lineage, reinforcing the cloth’s dual association with death and rebirth.

Condition:
The textile shows expected signs of age and use, including surface staining, softening of the cotton, and wear to the fringes. These features are consistent with an early 20th-century ceremonial cloth and contribute to its authenticity and ethnographic value.

Remarks:
Pua belantan of this period are increasingly scarce. The restrained aesthetic, combined with secure provenance from Seratok and early collection history, places this example as a strong representative of late 19th to early 20th century Iban ceremonial weaving traditions.